Hidden Behind Doors

We started out our morning with a class.  Our 'fixer' Mustapha Meskine (Photos) told us a little about the history and customs of Morocco.  Fes was the capital of the country until the French moved it to Rabat.  It is still considered the cultural capital and is home to the world's oldest continuous university, founded by a woman centuries ago.  It is predominantly Muslim but most consider it a peaceful religion not the one the radicals have co-opted recently.  The country has a tremendous amount of shoreline but stretches into the Saharan Desert.  

We broke into groups to explore the Medina with our three guides.  We made a stop at the Blue Gate (which is green from the inside).  It is the gateway into the chaos.

The taxi of the Medina

Scraping the hide in preparation for the tannery

We visited an abandoned palace that was centuries old.  There are many of these in Fes just waiting for new owners to come in and refurbish them.  I can't imagine how hard it might be to get all the mosaic tile work restored along with the intricate carvings on the doors and ceilings.  It would make some of our projects look like child's play!

We also got a chance to visit the oldest tannery in the world that dates back many, many centuries.  The white vats contain penguin poop which bleaches the hides.  Next they are soaked in the colored vats for several days to absorb the natural coloring. I can't imagine having to jump in to stir the hides around every day.  It can't do much for your social life.

What an incredible day at the Medina.  After following our guides through narrow passageways both high and low, you realize what a multilayered, vibrant community is hosted here.  Ancient in their traditions, the modern world has crept in with everyone carrying cell phones and satellite dishes dotting the rooftops.  I can see why Unesco has designated it a World Heritage Site.

Tomorrow: Out into the country